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Mole Richardson Molette


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#1 andrew ward

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Posted 06 October 2013 - 10:35 PM

Anyone used a Molette?
They seem cool but i dont understand the bulb safety system.

From looking at photos it seems like there is none.
Making them useless.
Why dont they have a glass safety tube?

I dont get it.
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#2 David Mullen ASC

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Posted 06 October 2013 - 11:15 PM

There are plenty of open-faced tungsten fixtures where you have an unprotected tungsten halogen bulb in a socket.  This one seems designed for when you want a bare tungsten halogen globe, perhaps to rig off a streetlamp, for example, or placed outside a window for a very sharp venetian blind patten, etc.  There have always been applications for bare light bulbs of some sort.


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#3 Phil Rhodes

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Posted 07 October 2013 - 05:45 AM

Having looked at a photo of one (without which I would have had no idea what a Molette was, so thanks for that at least!) it does seem to raise the issue of UV light hazard that's common to unenclosed tungsten halogen lamps, which run hot enough to have significant shortwave output. Presumably the envelope is quartz? It's for this reason that people started putting cover glasses on MR16s.

 

P


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#4 David Mullen ASC

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Posted 07 October 2013 - 11:09 AM

Looks similar to the bare 1K globe in an open-face fixture like a Micky Mole or Blonde.
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#5 Phil Rhodes

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Posted 07 October 2013 - 12:42 PM

Well, yes - and I was always taught that we should put UV filters in Blondes. I believe it's a fairly recent realisation actually provoked by someone noticing how much blue there is in LED replacements for things like MR16s, and then realising, hey, the tungsten halogen is hot enough to have a similar, though lesser, problem.


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#6 andrew ward

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Posted 08 October 2013 - 06:00 PM

In Australia you wouldnt use say a Blondie without safety glass or wires, i cant actually think of any fuxtures youd use with a bare bulb except prac bulbs.

I was thinking of the hard shadow capability, but if it has no safety glass, i could just use a 2k fres or 5k fres with the lens door open. I just thought it might have safety glass i couldnt see. A bare 2k bulb with safety glass in a small fixture could be really useful.
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#7 Matthew Parnell

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Posted 11 October 2013 - 09:38 AM

Andrew, check out the Phillips IDE HalogenA globes.

Could be used in conjunction with a custom made e40(mogul/GES) fitting or something like the chimera triolet lantern.
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#8 andrew ward

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Posted 11 October 2013 - 07:50 PM

Yeah i already have 500w/1000w dildo bulbs. Theres actually a 2000w you can get too.
But i figured a Molette would be good as the fixtures already made, has removable reflector and the bubble is more puntiform.

Or are you saying that double envelope bulbs are safer? I only know theyre good as you can touch them with bare hands. As far as i know anytime theyre used in lanternlok or softbox its dodgy as they could explode as much as any other bulb. If theyre safer that'd be good news, i just never heard that.
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#9 Matthew Parnell

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Posted 12 October 2013 - 11:41 PM

My understanding of it from reading the literature about them is that the second envelope offers a degree of protection as the outside glass envelope is a heavier shock resistant glass than the typical quartz envelope.

I would feel infinitely more comfortable using an IDE bare than the biopost in the molette.

If your after a hard blunt instrument the tota is a good one to look at as well.
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#10 Kurtis Myers

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 02:07 PM

Larry over at Mole told me they were originally designed to fit up in a street lamp or as close to it as possible.


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#11 andrew ward

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Posted 14 October 2013 - 01:56 AM

Hey Matt,
Thats good to know.
Im still hesitant to use any naked bulbs. I use em in lanternlok but dont think i should be and if it was close to an actor id start getting antsy.
But thats just training i had from one gaffer. If im wrong thatd make life easier as id use dildo bulbs all the time.
I got a Tota, but a 2k version would be cool.
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#12 Phil Rhodes

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Posted 14 October 2013 - 06:41 AM

I use almost no tungsten light at all, usually because it's so appallingly power inefficient.

 

I have a chinaball-type device that actually uses a collapsible ripstop nylon diffuser, but I use it with a large 105W fluorescent light. It'd presumably melt with tungsten, but the other advantage is that the fluorescent doesn't represent anything like the same explosion risk. You'd have to physically whack it to break the tube, and the nylon diffuser would certainly be enough to contain fragments.

 

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