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Shooting "non-recognized" cartridges in Canon 1014E


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#1 Liam Miller

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Posted 20 December 2013 - 05:16 PM

Hey guys. Recently bought a couple cartridges of film for a small trip I'm about to take. One cartridge of 200ASA Tungsten balanced, and one cartridge of 50ASA Daylight balanced film. The problem I'm experiencing is that my camera doesn't technically detect 200ASA Tungsten balanced film - it jumps from 160 to 250. The camera also doesn't detect 50ASA Daylight balanced film - it jumps from 40 to 64. 

 

How many stops of light will I lose? Do I need to start carving away at my cartridges? Advice? What ASA might my camera assume I'm shooting? I'm still in the experimental phase of using my camera, so tips on this would be fantastic!

 

Cheers


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#2 David Cunningham

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Posted 20 December 2013 - 06:27 PM

Your 50D will expose as 40D. That's actually a good thing. You will only be about 1/3 stop over exposing. Negative super 8 should be over exposed rather than under to reduce the visibility of grain. I have found that Vision3 50D exposes perfectly on my 1014XL-S and 814 Auto Zoom.

Your 200T will expose as 160T. Again, this is pretty much ideal. This is almost a half stop over exposed. But, that's ok. In fact. Good.

The last thing to consider is the accuracy of your meter in the first place. If it hasn't been serviced in 30 years, odds are it's accuracy will be off anyhow. So. The best thing to do is either have your camera serviced or shoot some test rolls.
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#3 Liam Miller

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Posted 20 December 2013 - 10:57 PM

Your 50D will expose as 40D. That's actually a good thing. You will only be about 1/3 stop over exposing. Negative super 8 should be over exposed rather than under to reduce the visibility of grain. I have found that Vision3 50D exposes perfectly on my 1014XL-S and 814 Auto Zoom.

Your 200T will expose as 160T. Again, this is pretty much ideal. This is almost a half stop over exposed. But, that's ok. In fact. Good.

The last thing to consider is the accuracy of your meter in the first place. If it hasn't been serviced in 30 years, odds are it's accuracy will be off anyhow. So. The best thing to do is either have your camera serviced or shoot some test rolls.

 

Thank you, David. Great news.

 

My camera was recently purchased from a guy who serviced and refurbished cameras, though there's a chance he may not have tweaked the meter. I intend on using my own light meter, but I wanted to get an idea of what the camera was "thinking" to begin with.

 

Thanks again :)


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#4 Chris Burke

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Posted 22 December 2013 - 02:18 PM

both of those film stocks will handle much more than even a full stop over exposed. In May I got a chance to shoot the very same stocks in the very hot and bright South Beach Miami sun. I intentionally overexposed by maybe 5 or 6 stops at times, letting the sun burn in the frame. I had both scanned at 2k from GAmma Ray digital and was able to pull out all the detail I wanted from clouds that were around the sun, while the shadows held as well. The very hot sun clipped or rolled off into white in a very nice and pleasing way, the way only film can. On a very bright day, with out much shadows in your scene, you could set your aperture at ƒ8 using the 50d and not worry about it, shoot away.


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#5 David Cunningham

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Posted 22 December 2013 - 03:12 PM

Hi Chris, Isn't Perry great to work with?  I love working in 2K with flat scan Prores 4444!

 

Chris and Liam,

 

Here is a home movie shot with my 1014 XL-S which exposes my Vision3 50D at 40 ASA, so about 1/3 over.  But, I lock the exposure at just a little more over exposed (not even a full 1/3 of a stop.  So, this footage is probably about 1/2 - 2/3 over.

 


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#6 David Cunningham

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Posted 22 December 2013 - 03:13 PM

Oh, view it at original 2K!... But, not full size.  The 2K gets you the higher bit rate so that the standard window looks good.... going full screen will still get you compression artifacts... damn youtube and film grain!


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