Need advice for lighting a scene.
Posted 06 January 2014 - 02:42 PM
My questions are:
1. Are there any techniques that would work better?
2. Is the intensity of the light ( meaning that it washes out the actor's faces) something can be fixed by changing the white balance or contrast on the camera, or with color correction in post?
3. Will the location change help?
Also, keep in mind that I am 17, and still in high school, working with an 11 dollar budget (literally) and my equipment is about as cheap as it gets. I am using a 300 dollar Sony digital camera and 150 dollar lights.
Any suggestions at all would be of great help.
Posted 06 January 2014 - 03:17 PM
Normally we'd skirt the light with Black-wrap (film tin foil so just use regular tin foil) around the doors to tease it off of the walls and onto the table. Keep it off of the actors faces totally if you can and let the table cloth bounce it back up. You my want to augment this with perhaps a china ball (paper lantern) with a low wattage bulb suspended just above the actors heads and towards the front to fill in under their eyes.
Posted 06 January 2014 - 03:27 PM
You my want to augment this with perhaps a china ball (paper lantern) with a low wattage bulb suspended just above the actors heads and towards the front to fill in under their eyes.
How close would the paper ball have to be to the actors? In other words, how wide of a shot could I get while using it effectively and not having it in the shot?
Posted 06 January 2014 - 03:34 PM
For the wide I'd not worry about it as much-- i'd let the table be the main bounce and then as you go into close ups you cheat the china balls in. in the wide this won't mater as much as detail is smaller
Posted 06 January 2014 - 03:37 PM
Posted 06 January 2014 - 04:00 PM
Not really it's still going to bounce off of the reflector all over the place. that's the key, controlling where the light goes-- hence the black wrap (or tin foil).
Posted 06 January 2014 - 09:34 PM
That scene in "Inglourious Basterds" was lit with a 1.2K HMI Par I think, from a top / slightly back angle. Fairly spotty.
When students say that a light is "too intense" I don't quite understand since you can expose the sun to look like dim moonlight, so surely you can expose an 800w lamp to look as hot or as dim as you want, just takes stopping down the lens and/or using ND filters. Certainly an 800w lamp would be a good place to start to create that hot top/back light effect, the main problem is that it isn't focusable into a narrow spot beam, being a work lamp. At best, you could use blackwrap to at least snoot it.
Posted 06 January 2014 - 09:39 PM
(I apologize, I have next to no clue what most of the jargon means)
Posted 06 January 2014 - 09:46 PM
Stopping down the lens means closing down the iris (f-stop) -- for example, going from f/2.8 to f/8 means you closed down the iris by three f-stops (the series is something like 1.4 / 2.0 / 2.8 / 4.0 / 5.6 / 8.0 / 11.0 / 16. 0 / 22.0 -- each stop is a double or halving of the amount of light that gets past the lens to the sensor. Of course, if you don't want the extra depth of field from closing down the iris, you may need to use ND filters, or select a lower ISO / ASA value or a shorter shutter time.
All of this suggests you should be using a camera with fully manual controls over f-stop, shutter, and gain.