No problem. I hope any info I've given helps! Definitely try a test cartridge of 200T on manual. I think you'll be happy with the results (as long as you have fresh batteries in your camera for the light meter).
I'd do two things with a test cartridge:
First take a few different meterings through the lens like I said up there, just scoping around the room, or outdoors, wherever....to get an idea of your range of f-stops that are covered in a random roundabout turn of the camera. Just to see how it works and to feel it out and get it sort of "on your mind" what's going on.
After that, pick a static shot. Meter it to know what it is supposed to be at. But then DON'T just shoot that f stop. Do a bracket test on it. Meaning (stop me if this bores you because I don't know "what you know"), you basically shoot the same scene at the "correct" f stop, then change the lens to be closed down one stop lower....then two stops lower.....one higher than normal.....then plus two etc. (but do it in this order -2, -1, 0, +1, +2) so when you get the film back you can see the effects of over and under exposing, and it will then show you really clearly not only what it does to the look of that film, but how much you can trust "your camera's light meter" to get that look. ONE THING though....just write down on pieces of paper, or paper plates or whatever scraps you have laying around when you do it....a series of numbers: -2, -1, 0, +1, +2 all on their own paper and include it into the scene (like tape it to a back wall or whatever basically) so that you will later on know what stop "did that" to the film you're actually viewing. Bracket tests are awesome to help you to just sort of start melting into your camera...where you two get to know each other. Because they're quirky, mechanical, and frankly "well-loved" machines, and so you have to do these things to learn their quirks (and also film's quirks). Keep in mind I am speaking from a pragmatic view, assuming we don't have pro techs servicing our little Nizo's! But that's what makes it fun.
But just for general use photography, yeah, you can just meter every shot really. Negative stocks today allow for a TON of headroom in the highlights, so you can lean more toward the open side. That way you'll pull up information out of any deep shadows, but probably not necessarily be blowing out the stock either. It depends how deep you want to go into this, but there are far better threads and info out there on detailed metering, the zone system, and just how meters should be dealt with than I can offer here. But anyway, another benefit of you shooting a little more open than the meter says is that you'll reduce grain this way because you pull the image up out of the noise floor basically. If you want grain, do the opposite, and close the lens down a little more. But this is again all stuff that the bracket test above will show you. So pick a cool still life, or a person sitting on a neat couch or something, and tape those papers behind them and twiddle some lenses!!!