I had mentioned previously about how my camera test footage came back crap due to smeared footage and light leak. I, in true impulsive and short tempered fashion, was ready to sell my gear and go digital. I listed the parts on eBay BEFORE talking to Paul Hilman like I should have.
The next day I got an email back telling me to call Paul. I called him and he is a wonderful man. He walked me through how I could fix the problems myself and how to save money doing so. Suffice to say, i am pretty much sure that the camera problems are fixed.
Problem is, before I found this out, I had already sold my "dummy block" AC adapter for $150. I cannot find these things anywhere and I don't want to pay that much anyway so here is the birth of my current project of which I would love input and advice.
In 2013 when I owned my other CP16, I only had batteries and a charger. I always wanted an indoor supply that didn't need to be charged because so much of what I shoot is interiors anyway. I had messed around with some mad scientist creations that involved alligator clips, etc, and I made a setup that could theoretically run the camera at the right voltage (20V) and supply more than enough current (3A) using a laptop power supply to a DC port that was soldered to two wires that connected to alligator clips to attach to the power pins on the side of the camera body. This wasnt meant to actually be usable on set but just to see if it works. It did and it kept sync (at least according to the fact that the sync light never came on)
Now, I am reviving that idea but I have a more realistic way of how this can be used.
I purchased this $3.99 case from Radio Shack.
And I found the power pins distance by pushing hard against them with the case. It made two slight indentations that I could use to hole punch on and then drill. I used a 7/64 bit.
Sliding this into the battery part worked beautifully as it clicks into place and doesnt move. The enclosure is slightly undersized at 2" wide and 1" deep compared to 2 1/8" wide and 1 1/4" deep. However, the tightness of the power pins into the 7/64 holes makes for a nice and tight fit that will not come lose without a decent amount of effort.
My main point of this post is as follows:
1) Once I add a DC port to the other end of the case, what would be the best (cost as well as stability) way to connect the DC port wires to the hole where the pins will make contact?
2) Is there anyway where this same idea can be applied to make renewed battery packs so that people don't have to painstakingly track down old CP batteries, try to open them, and risk cracking them or dealing with old internal batteries?
3) Is there any flaw in my plan as far as attaching 20V laptop batteries (like a universal per se) to the DIY dummy block that I am not forseeing?