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arriflex 16 S internal schematic or diagram?


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#1 micheallLeake

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Posted 23 September 2015 - 01:06 PM

Does anyone have a auricles 16mm s servicing schematic which you can post??

Thanks

Michael Leake


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#2 Bill DiPietra

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Posted 23 September 2015 - 01:19 PM

I'm assuming you already have the owner's manual in your possession?...


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#3 micheallLeake

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Posted 24 September 2015 - 03:54 AM

Yds, I have the owners manual, I am hoping to get some servicing manual information before I start taking my array 16s apart.

So far I have had the motor and the diopter apart and back together.

Michael Leake


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#4 Mark Dunn

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Posted 24 September 2015 - 08:36 AM

auricles... do you mean Auricon?


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#5 micheallLeake

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Posted 24 September 2015 - 08:59 AM

Sorry Mark

My typing on a smart phone is horrible. I have an Arriflex 16S. And I mean schematic, which would hopefully show detailed information on the order of dis-assembly and re-assembly of internal mechanical parts, and possible tolerances, adjustments and alignmentsl

Thanks

Michael Leake


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#6 Tim Carroll

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Posted 10 December 2015 - 10:23 PM

You can probably get your Arriflex 16S apart, but getting it back together again and working properly will be an entirely different thing.

 

The Arriflex 16S was made back in a time when each camera was hand made, hand fitted, and hand adjusted by technicians who knew the design and tolerances intimately.  It's not like the later ARRI cameras where parts were mass produced and assembled on assembly lines.  There are SO MANY things you can screw up when putting an Arriflex 16S camera back together again, things that will throw off registration, film weave, ground glass focus, flange focal distance, film advance timing, registration timing, not to mention the multiple specialty lubricants that are needed for each different sub assembly of the camera.  The Arriflex 16S is a wet lube camera, so when the entire camera is disassembled, everything has to be ultrasonically cleaned to remove the old dried up/gummy lubricants before re-lubing and re-assembly.

 

Not really a camera that lends itself to self-service.

 

Best,

-Tim


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#7 micheallLeake

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Posted 12 December 2015 - 01:33 PM

Tim,

Thanks for the response.  I have had a dose of what you talk about. I have been servicing the turret. The turret on my camera has one lens socket with a stainless steel sleeve. The other two are milled sockets.  I acquired two lenses for the camera and they did not fit in either of the two milled lens sockets. I removed the turret from the camera.  From the turret, I had to remove the pair of lens locking levers and the lens key from both lens sockets. Then, by hand, I carefully sanded, polished and waxed the sockets. Both of the lenses will now fit into either socket.  When I re-installed the lens locking levers I discovered that I had reversed two washer shims and the lens locking levers would not operate. I had to switch them around to make the levers operate freely. I am thinking I will have this happen again with other areas of the arri.


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#8 Tim Carroll

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Posted 16 December 2015 - 03:09 PM

Micheall,

 

There are two issues with taking apart and re-assembling a motion picture camera.  The one issue you dealt with when you took apart your turret, re-assembling the parts in different places from where they came off the camera.  

 

The more serious issue is when you start taking apart the "movement" of the camera.  That is the whole mechanism that advances and registers the film through the camera, and sets the distance from the lens mount flange to the film gate.  We had many specialty tools and fixtures that were needed to reassemble the camera movement.  Tools and gauges that made sure the advanced was timed perfectly, that the registration pin was advancing the film by a very exact amount, and that the flange focal distance was set properly.  To give you a reference, if the flange focal distance is off by more than .005 mm, the image on the film will be out of focus.  .005 mm is one tenth the diameter of a human hair.  If the registration pin is set improperly, you will get an image that is jumping up and down when you try to project it or telecine it.  If the side rail is set too tight, you'll build up film on the rail and jam up the camera, if it is set too loose, the image on the film will weave back and forth as it is projected or telecined.  

 

Professional motion picture cameras are incredible machines, but to get the best from them, they need to be serviced by trained professionals.

 

Best,

-Tim


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#9 Mark Day

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Posted 05 July 2016 - 12:39 PM

Can the Arri 16 be taken apart just far enough to re-paint it.  For servicing, I'd send it off.  I'm looking at one on e-Bay that the seller says "works" but could use re-painting.


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