Posted 19 February 2016 - 03:50 AM
You can always just add contrast during grading in post if you want. But by slightly overexposing the negative, you'll get a slightly more contrasty look and a little bit more saturation naturally. That's what I would advise if you wanted to make photochemical prints in the lab. It's a very subtle effect compared to what you can do digitally, so if you want a strong effect, then you'll have to do it with digital grading.
David Mullen is the resident expert on creating looks with alternate film processing. But basically, skip bleaching the negative increases contrast and reduces saturation, which it sounds like you don't want. It also increases density of the negative overall since you are basically leaving in a layer of black and white film grain that usually gets washed out. This causes the highlights to burn out much faster than normal. Pushing the film by one stop will make this worse, since this increases contrast by pushing the highlights up faster than the shadows. So I don't think this will give you the look you want.
When there were more choices of film stocks, you could have used Fuji Vivid stock which had inherently more contrast and saturation. Unfortunately, Fujifilm no longer makes any motion picture stock. Or you could have used color reversal film, also no longer made for motion picture cameras. Fuji does still make color reversal for still photography, but unfortunately it is prohibitively expensive to get them to make it with BH perfs and in the roll sizes required for motion picture cameras. One other option would be to make a print from your negative and scan that. But really, the simplest and most controllable way of getting the look you want is to just do it digitally.