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Cassette Recorder Repair


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#1 Gabe Agoado

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Posted 11 May 2016 - 05:02 PM

I bought a Sony TC-D5M in decent condition off of Ebay, it won't power on. I was considering returning it and just trying to find another one but it's a recorder that's been modified by "The Film Group" to run at crystal sync speed, which is something they charge $375 for (double what I paid for the recorder) so I figure I will hang onto it.

 

I live in NY and there seems to be only 1 place that maintains analog equipment and their prices are high. I asked this same question on Tapeheads.net, but does anyone know a good place to get one of these things repaired?


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#2 Freya Black

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Posted 13 May 2016 - 09:36 AM

I bought a Sony TC-D5M in decent condition off of Ebay, it won't power on. I was considering returning it and just trying to find another one but it's a recorder that's been modified by "The Film Group" to run at crystal sync speed, which is something they charge $375 for (double what I paid for the recorder) so I figure I will hang onto it.

 

I live in NY and there seems to be only 1 place that maintains analog equipment and their prices are high. I asked this same question on Tapeheads.net, but does anyone know a good place to get one of these things repaired?

 

 

Maybe easier to get a working one and transfer the crystal upgrade.

Are you running it off batteries. Are you sure it's not a contact corrosion issue?


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#3 Freya Black

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Posted 13 May 2016 - 09:38 AM

http://www.ebay.co.u...EEAAOSwGWNUYZGo


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#4 Tyler Purcell

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Posted 13 May 2016 - 10:22 AM

Freya is right on the nose, it's probably something simple. I've had many of these units before and they're pretty robust. The only catch is if you power it with something that's over voltage, it will pop the fuse. I'm pretty sure it has a standard on-board soldered fuse, which is easy to access. I haven't needed to in the past, but if you can dig up a manual, I'd check.
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#5 Gabe Agoado

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Posted 13 May 2016 - 12:22 PM

There was a very tiny amount of corrosion on the contact which I cleaned off with isopropyl alcohol. I popped in batteries and nothing happened. However when I plugged it into the wall with a 7.5V charger because I didn't have a 6V one, the VU meter lights came on but nothing else worked. I didn't think that much difference in voltage would be an issue, but if there is a blown fuse I will try to find it.


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#6 Freya Black

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Posted 13 May 2016 - 04:09 PM

There was a very tiny amount of corrosion on the contact which I cleaned off with isopropyl alcohol. I popped in batteries and nothing happened. However when I plugged it into the wall with a 7.5V charger because I didn't have a 6V one, the VU meter lights came on but nothing else worked. I didn't think that much difference in voltage would be an issue, but if there is a blown fuse I will try to find it.

 

 

What about polarity and was it a regulated supply?!!!!!

 

Freya


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#7 Tyler Purcell

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Posted 14 May 2016 - 01:06 AM

There was a very tiny amount of corrosion on the contact which I cleaned off with isopropyl alcohol. I popped in batteries and nothing happened. However when I plugged it into the wall with a 7.5V charger because I didn't have a 6V one, the VU meter lights came on but nothing else worked. I didn't think that much difference in voltage would be an issue, but if there is a blown fuse I will try to find it.


Did the lights dim when you tried to engage the motor, or did they stay strong? If you plugin a source, can you see the VU meters move when in record? The belts are a very common failure point and you would not see anything spinning if they failed. So that could be the problem and it's VERY common.
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#8 Gabe Agoado

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Posted 14 May 2016 - 01:27 AM

 

What about polarity and was it a regulated supply?!!!!!

Not exactly sure what you mean there. The batteries were put in with the correct polarity, the adapter I used was a DC adapter, as specified on the recorder, just 1.5v over.

 

Did the lights dim when you tried to engage the motor, or did they stay strong? If you plugin a source, can you see the VU meters move when in record? The belts are a very common failure point and you would not see anything spinning if they failed. So that could be the problem and it's VERY common.

I put in a tape with music on it, tried out play, fast-forward, record and rewind and it didn't spin. The lights on the VU meters didn't dim at all when I tried this. Are belts something that are easy to replace?


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#9 Freya Black

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Posted 14 May 2016 - 06:43 AM

Not exactly sure what you mean there. The batteries were put in with the correct polarity, the adapter I used was a DC adapter, as specified on the recorder, just 1.5v over.

 

That's what worries me. A PSU also has polarity. Centre negative or centre positive usually it varies and getting it wrong is bad.

Also if the PSU is not regulated then voltage can vary alongside current. Speaking of current what was the amps on the PSU you used? All these things are important, not just the voltage.

 

Hopefully you got lucky.


Edited by Freya Black, 14 May 2016 - 06:44 AM.

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#10 Tyler Purcell

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Posted 14 May 2016 - 10:16 AM

I put in a tape with music on it, tried out play, fast-forward, record and rewind and it didn't spin. The lights on the VU meters didn't dim at all when I tried this. Are belts something that are easy to replace?


You don't need a tape to see if the machine works.

Do you know how to bypass the record switch?

Put a blank tape in it and push the record button. Give the machine an audio source to see if the meters move. You have to determine if the machine isn't powering up OR if it's just a belt.

I don't recall the belt being difficult to replace. But then again, I re-build things all the time.
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#11 Gabe Agoado

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Posted 21 May 2016 - 12:04 AM

If I am connecting a mic that needs phantom power, do I need a passive adapter that just provides phantom power or an active one with a pre-amp inside?


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#12 Macks Fiiod

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Posted 21 May 2016 - 04:02 AM

 

 

If I am connecting a mic that needs phantom power, do I need a passive adapter that just provides phantom power or an active one with a pre-amp inside?

depends on the pres within the device itself. If your tape device has no gain control then it might be a good idea to pass it through a full preamp providing proper gain. If the tape device DOES have gain control, a simple $20 Phantom power supply will work.


Edited by Macks Fiiod, 21 May 2016 - 04:03 AM.

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