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Krasnogorsk - Opinions


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#1 Mark Day

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Posted 27 June 2016 - 03:58 PM

So, what is the general consensus around here about the Krasnogorsk?  Most Russian stuff (like Chinese) isn't worth owning, but I was looking at some of these cameras on e-Bay and actually, in the photos at least, they appear to be pretty nice.  Depending on your opinions, I may try one.

Thanks.


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#2 Will Montgomery

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Posted 27 June 2016 - 04:22 PM

Great way to start out in 16mm. Super inexpensive, which is good because you may have to buy 2 or 3 before you get a good one.

 

Once you have a working one you can pick up Pentax Super Takumar m42 mount lenses cheap and can get some amazing images out of that camera.

 

The issue I had with it was having to constantly wind it before a shoot and only getting 20 seconds per shot. I had to move to a motorized camera like the Scoopic to save my hand.


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#3 aapo lettinen

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Posted 27 June 2016 - 07:09 PM

with correct loop size and maintenance they are quite reliable. the "can opener" winding lever is not that great for hands if you're shooting lots of material but for the price they are good cameras and relatively easy to repair though scratch film easily if the loop size is not absolutely correct by 1 frame


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#4 Wiliam Cardoza

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Posted 28 June 2016 - 02:02 AM

Shoot reversal and get a projector is a cheap way to go rather than scanning every time etc

 

i probably overpaid for mine but it's pretty reliable. I only screwed up the first roll because i tried to load in a darkroom not really trusting a daylight spool (it actually works LOL) - the most important thing is to get the loop sizes correct top vs bottom; waist a little film and run 6 FPS then 12 FPS then 24 FPS and see if it's still keeping a loop before you close it up etc. I usually use it in one session but a few times i've driven around careful to not knock the camera around a potentially lose the loop etc. 


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#5 Mark Day

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Posted 28 June 2016 - 07:34 AM

Thanks.


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#6 aapo lettinen

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Posted 28 June 2016 - 09:10 AM

if you buy a model which has the plastic loop formers, those can also scratch film and most users take them off for that reason. you should mark the correct loop sizes to the inner panel so that it is easy to get them right, as said the upper loop scratches very easily if too big because the pressure plate edge near it is quite rough an unpolished.

 

if you decide to take open the camera inner panel for maintenance, make sure to mark first the correct position of the transport sprocket wheel relative to the rollers. they may seem symmetrical but they are NOT and if wrongly assembled they may jam the mechanism every now and then. (if it jams mid shoot you have to open the jamming upper/lower roller and close it again. I strongly recommend installing it right the first time so you don't have to open the rollers all the time because of jams)


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#7 Will Montgomery

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Posted 28 June 2016 - 09:49 AM

Mine had loop formers removed, S16 gate, re-centered lens mount, drilled out viewfiner (to see the whole S16 area and Bernie's laserbrighten on the mirror. It was very reliable and once you got used to forming the loops, it was easy to load (not as easy as a Scoopic though).

 

Great 1st 16mm camera to have and learn on. Just wait until you get the first scans back, you'll be amazed at the difference between 8mm and 16mm. Then you'll need an Eyemo and try 35mm.


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#8 Mark Day

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Posted 28 June 2016 - 03:17 PM

Well I got my D-10 yesterday and am anxious to start shooting with it.


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