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tri-x 16mm/S8 home processing tips

16mm tri-x home processing

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#1 david richardson

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Posted 18 July 2016 - 06:56 PM

Hello, finally got round to processing some 35mm still tri-x at home using R09 one shot and leaving if for an hour with a little agitation at the beginning and middle. Then stop and rinse. I liked the results but I fear this might be too much for smaller formats. I've got a dusty lomo tank and I was thinking it may be better with Acufine, do I need to use any other chemicals? I want to get as fine results as I can before sending them off for a telecine, also if anybody as any tips on how to store them afterwards so them don't get damaged that would be great. A long time film lover, but I'm very new to processing at home.. Thanks for any help. David


Edited by david richardson, 18 July 2016 - 06:57 PM.

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#2 aapo lettinen

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Posted 18 July 2016 - 10:27 PM

how to store....the processing chemicals?  you need a protection gas which is used to substitute air in the bottles to prevent oxidation and not store them in too hot conditions.

anything which don't react with the chemicals and is denser than air should do fine, I think some photographers use lighter gas for this. there is factory made protections sprays which can also used and are less flammable. 

If you use raw chemicals (vitamin-c , hydroquinone, etc.) they also need protection from oxidation.

 

R09 is intended for one use only as the name indicates, especially the very diluted working solutions. and it is very cheap, it's really best to always make a fresh solution for each film batch with that.  

 

there is plenty of photography resources on film developing and fine tuning the formulas for specific emulsions, if you want to really get the best out of the tri-x you should search those forums. 

you may need to mix the developer by yourself from raw chemicals if you want to really fine tune it but factory made developers are a good start.

I would use something other than 4-aminophenol developer (R09 etc) if you want less grainy results. maybe Phenidone based like X-tol? some have had good results with it.

 

never tried trix home developing (mostly I shoot Orwo, 7222 and various still stock in MP use, for example APX400) but Acufine could work quite well with it as far as I could find info from web.


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#3 aapo lettinen

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Posted 18 July 2016 - 10:33 PM

developer, fixer and wetting agent (reduces surface tension to aid drying, I use Ilfotol but some use even soap for this) . those are the basics. stop bath may be necessary with some processes, for example citric acid based solution, but usually water will do for this step. 


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#4 david richardson

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Posted 20 July 2016 - 02:41 PM

Excellent thank you Aapo. I was just wondering as some forums say you need bleach to turn Tri-x back to a negative or something? I was wondering about storing the reel of film after processing it?


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#5 Brian Pritchard

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Posted 27 July 2016 - 10:52 AM

Hello David

You can't bleach reversal back to negative, if you bleach it you will end up with clear film.  You should ensure that the film has been correct washed and then store it in cool, dry conditions, the colder the better.  If the film is stored in very cold conditions you should always allow it to warm up before opening the can to avoid condensation.  If possible it is good to rewind the film to the other end regularly, once a year would be good.

Brian


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#6 Simon Wyss

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Posted 27 July 2016 - 01:17 PM

An hour? Are you on North Pole? Underexposure by several stops?

 

As I understand you, you have Kodak Tri-X 400 or 320 negative film. Developing time with R09 is ten to twelve minutes.

Then a 2 percent acetic acid stop bath, a short rinse, complete fixation, and final rinse.


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