Jump to content


Photo

S16 slight shadowing/vignetting no problem?


  • Please log in to reply
7 replies to this topic

#1 Jon O'Brien

Jon O'Brien
  • Basic Members
  • PipPip
  • 76 posts
  • Other
  • Brisbane

Posted 28 September 2016 - 09:44 PM

Hi, if you get your S16 film back from the lab, shot in negative stock, now in digital form ready to be edited etc on a computer, and you see that the image has some very slight shadowing or vignetting in a corner or corners, can you, on a home computer, re-frame/crop/zoom-in-a-bit the image, so that the version 'released' to the public for viewing on the internet or digitally projected has the shadowing or vignetting eliminated? I realise some image quality will be lost, due to an enlargement of the grain. But in filmmaking as in nearly everything compromise appears to be the way of things in the arts.


  • 0

#2 Tyler Purcell

Tyler Purcell
  • Sustaining Members
  • 2792 posts
  • Other
  • Los Angeles

Posted 29 September 2016 - 12:55 AM

Umm, one of the most basic features of all editing software is the ability to resize or "scale" the image.

Most people scan Super 16 at greater then 2k resolution, with a 2k finish format, so they can resize if necessary.
  • 0

#3 Jon O'Brien

Jon O'Brien
  • Basic Members
  • PipPip
  • 76 posts
  • Other
  • Brisbane

Posted 29 September 2016 - 01:35 AM

Thank you for your help. I'm trying to save money, so am seeking to learn as much as I can without making expensive mistakes. I also don't have much time, and have to work out what lenses I need fairly quickly. So, the sooner I can get advice on all this the better. I don't have experience with digital editing, but do with actual film and a splicer.


Edited by Jon O'Brien, 29 September 2016 - 01:49 AM.

  • 0

#4 aapo lettinen

aapo lettinen
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 802 posts
  • Other
  • Finland

Posted 29 September 2016 - 03:12 AM

zooming in and reframing is easy in any edit software. but if the darkening is very subtle you can maybe correct it in grading without any need to reframe. widescreen end format also helps because then you will mask the gate corners anyway with the 2.35 / 2.39 / 2.40 mask 


  • 0

#5 Robin R Probyn

Robin R Probyn
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1223 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • Tokyo

Posted 29 September 2016 - 08:06 AM

If it looks good I would leave it.. alot of people add this exact effect in post !


  • 0

#6 Tyler Purcell

Tyler Purcell
  • Sustaining Members
  • 2792 posts
  • Other
  • Los Angeles

Posted 29 September 2016 - 10:46 AM

Thank you for your help. I'm trying to save money, so am seeking to learn as much as I can without making expensive mistakes. I also don't have much time, and have to work out what lenses I need fairly quickly. So, the sooner I can get advice on all this the better. I don't have experience with digital editing, but do with actual film and a splicer.


If this were 1990, I'd say yea... just cut it on film, but "digital editing" has been around for 30 years. If you have no experience with it, you've got a pretty steep learning curve ahead of you. If I were you, I'd be shooting stuff with a cheap digital camera and learning how to edit NOW because there is a lot to it. For instance, you can't take the scanned compressed files form the lab and cut them without a decent computer, fast online storage and the right editing software. You can't just download iMovie or Windows Movie maker and expect them to work.
  • 0

#7 Jon O'Brien

Jon O'Brien
  • Basic Members
  • PipPip
  • 76 posts
  • Other
  • Brisbane

Posted 29 September 2016 - 03:48 PM

I'm doing just as you describe. I have a small video camera and have started taking some shots and am now figuring out what to do about editing. My video camera has excellent sound recording capabilities, but the lens is extremely basic. Yes, there's a lot to learn about editing but I'm keen.


Edited by Jon O'Brien, 29 September 2016 - 03:57 PM.

  • 0

#8 Jon O'Brien

Jon O'Brien
  • Basic Members
  • PipPip
  • 76 posts
  • Other
  • Brisbane

Posted 29 September 2016 - 05:03 PM

Sorry, just to avoid confusion (lest anyone wonder if I'm a klutz), my mention of the lens on my digital camera has nothing to do with this discussion. I'm talking here of Super 16 mm film.


Edited by Jon O'Brien, 29 September 2016 - 05:14 PM.

  • 0


Ritter Battery

CineLab

rebotnix Technologies

Metropolis Post

Broadcast Solutions Inc

Paralinx LLC

Glidecam

Aerial Filmworks

Quantum Music Works

FJS International, LLC

Rig Wheels Passport

Pro 8mm

Abel Cine

Zylight

CineTape

Visual Products

The Slider

Technodolly

Willys Widgets

Tai Audio

Aerial Filmworks

Ritter Battery

Technodolly

Abel Cine

Glidecam

Zylight

Visual Products

Paralinx LLC

The Slider

FJS International, LLC

Metropolis Post

rebotnix Technologies

Rig Wheels Passport

Broadcast Solutions Inc

Quantum Music Works

CineLab

CineTape

Willys Widgets

Tai Audio

Pro 8mm