In all seriousness, many modern electronic fluorescent ballasts will handle high frame rate work. Obviously, you should buy one and shoot a quick test before committing to a large number of them.
Assuming you want to hide the ballasts and wiring as much as possible, you may need to be quite careful about cable lengths.
One concern may be ways of connecting to the ends of the tubes. Ideally you'd want something like the Kino-Flo style clamp-on caps but they're rare and expensive. When I built fluorescent lighting, I used something like this. They're really intended to be held in place by the fitting, but there's enough spring in the contacts that they will hold on reasonably well. In extremis you can use individual terminal block sections which will clamp onto the tube pins. This is actually sturdier and at least reasonably touch-proof, but I doubt the approach would pass an electrical safety check.
Otherwise, it's just a case of buying all the parts, suspending the tubes however you want them, and wiring it all up. If you use commercial ballasts, both they and the tube end caps are likely to have push-in terminations. These can be quick, which is great, but they're generally intended for solid-core wire. This can be a bit of a pain to deal with if you want to use more flexible, stranded-core wire. The trick is to strip the end at double the length you require, twist it, then fold it in half so you're shoving a folded end of wire into the termination, rather than trying to stick all of the copper strands down the hole. Pick fairly thin wire that will allow you to do this, although pay attention to the insulation requirements as the maximum output from the ballast is likely to be significantly above mains.