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Beaulieu 4008 ZM II not running


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#1 John R Woods

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Posted 28 January 2017 - 04:43 PM

One of my Beaulieu 4008 ZM IIs is not running.  I bought a new battery for it (the same kind I bought for my other one).  The power zoom works, and the autoexposure works.  But pull the trigger, and no go.  Obviously it will have to be opened up to discover the problem, but what are the likely causes?  Broken wire?  Corroded switch?  Has anyone else had this problem, and resolved it?

 


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#2 Martin Baumgarten

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Posted 28 January 2017 - 07:39 PM

It can be a couple of issues.  But an easy check is to remove the battery source, then remove the cap cover on the Rewind Shaft, then while holding the trigger in, rotate the shaft using a small flathead screwdriver.  Then put the battery back in, and try it again.  If still no go, try rotating the shaft again, but this time with the power applied and the trigger pressed.  If no go, try using a cable release and see if that makes it run.  If it does, then the issue is with the mechanical switch of the trigger mechanism. If not, it's more involved.  It can also be light corrosion on the switch inside, but obviously you'll have to open that side of the camera.  This is not that difficult, but you will need the fine tools for it.  To remove the side cover, there's a small screw just below the viewfinder for the outer cover, then remove the Ground Glass Knob via a tiny set screw (don't remove the screw, just loosen it so you can pull the knob off the shaft), then remove the Rewind Shaft trim plate (you'll need a wide thin flat screwdriver or tool you can make if you don't have a small spanner wrench for this.  The cover then lifts off easily (make sure the batter has been removed as well).  Inside, you'll be able to see the trigger mechanism which the exterior trigger button presses against.  Make sure it's making contact with the switch.  You'll note, it does two things, it closes the power contact switch so the motor will run, as well as release a lock on the motor drive shaft.  That's why in the earlier test, you had to depress the trigger first in order to be able to rotate the Rewind Shaft.   Sometimes the contact switch gets weak with age, and you can both clean it and also bend it a bit so it makes contact again.   While the cover is off, you can clean up any areas that need cleaning, as well as give everything else that is visible a once over.   When ready, replace the side cover carefully, front to back, then replace the rear body shell screw below the viewfinder eyepiece, the Ground Glass Knob (don't over tighten that tiny set screw!), and the Rewind Shaft Trim Circle.  Hopefully it will be something easy and your camera will run again soon!  Good luck!


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#3 Dom Jaeger

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Posted 28 January 2017 - 09:11 PM

If you're up for a bit of diy camera servicing, there is a repair manual here:
http://www.mango-a-g...pair Manual.PDF

and a visual guide to disasssembly that I made here:
http://cinetinker.bl...-4008-zmii.html

Scroll through the repair manual to page 84 where you'll find an electrical faults section, and a checklist of things under the header 'camera won't run'.
You'll need a multimeter and maybe a soldering iron. Hopefully it's something simple like a dry joint or dirty contact rather than a hard to replace faulty transistor or burnt out motor.

Manually inching the mechanism over as Martin described is the first thing to do in case it's simply a bit seized.

Good luck!
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#4 John R Woods

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 03:54 PM

It can be a couple of issues.  But an easy check is to remove the battery source, then remove the cap cover on the Rewind Shaft, then while holding the trigger in, rotate the shaft using a small flathead screwdriver.  Then put the battery back in, and try it again.  If still no go, try rotating the shaft again, but this time with the power applied and the trigger pressed. 

 

I got this far.  No luck.  I don't have a cable release handy, so I couldn't try that.

 

If you're up for a bit of diy camera servicing, there is a repair manual here:
http://www.mango-a-g...pair Manual.PDF

and a visual guide to disasssembly that I made here:
http://cinetinker.bl...-4008-zmii.html

Scroll through the repair manual to page 84 where you'll find an electrical faults section, and a checklist of things under the header 'camera won't run'.
You'll need a multimeter and maybe a soldering iron. Hopefully it's something simple like a dry joint or dirty contact rather than a hard to replace faulty transistor or burnt out motor.

Manually inching the mechanism over as Martin described is the first thing to do in case it's simply a bit seized.

Good luck!

 

Sometimes I'm good at fixing things.  (My Bogen 3036 repair seems to be holding.)  But when it comes to electronic devices, I'm not confident.

 

Thank you both for your advice.  I just don't think I'm up to opening the camera up myself.


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#5 Andries Molenaar

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 04:39 PM

It can be a couple of issues.  But an easy check is to remove the battery source, then remove the cap cover on the Rewind Shaft, then while holding the trigger in, rotate the shaft using a small flathead screwdriver.  Then put the battery back in, and try it again.  If still no go, try rotating the shaft again, but this time with the power applied and the trigger pressed.  If no go, try using a cable release and see if that makes it run.  If it does, then the issue is with the mechanical switch of the trigger mechanism. If not, it's more involved.  It can also be light corrosion on the switch inside, but obviously you'll have to open that side of the camera.  This is not that difficult, but you will need the fine tools for it.  To remove the side cover, there's a small screw just below the viewfinder for the outer cover, then remove the Ground Glass Knob via a tiny set screw (don't remove the screw, just loosen it so you can pull the knob off the shaft), then remove the Rewind Shaft trim plate (you'll need a wide thin flat screwdriver or tool you can make if you don't have a small spanner wrench for this.  The cover then lifts off easily (make sure the batter has been removed as well).  Inside, you'll be able to see the trigger mechanism which the exterior trigger button presses against.  Make sure it's making contact with the switch.  You'll note, it does two things, it closes the power contact switch so the motor will run, as well as release a lock on the motor drive shaft.  That's why in the earlier test, you had to depress the trigger first in order to be able to rotate the Rewind Shaft.   Sometimes the contact switch gets weak with age, and you can both clean it and also bend it a bit so it makes contact again.   While the cover is off, you can clean up any areas that need cleaning, as well as give everything else that is visible a once over.   When ready, replace the side cover carefully, front to back, then replace the rear body shell screw below the viewfinder eyepiece, the Ground Glass Knob (don't over tighten that tiny set screw!), and the Rewind Shaft Trim Circle.  Hopefully it will be something easy and your camera will run again soon!  Good luck!

And don't forget to take the left screw out just beneath the viewfinder. And not the right-side one)


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#6 John R Woods

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Posted 04 February 2017 - 04:15 PM

The advice given is great.  But as I said, I am not confident I can undertake them.  I sent the camera to Bernie at Super 16, and he says he can fix it.  Apparently there is a bent lever/arm connecting the trigger to the circuitry.  There's a blown fuze (which I would never have found) and a couple of other things.


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#7 Andries Molenaar

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Posted 05 February 2017 - 10:24 AM

That was very wise :)

I would almost assume the Bernie in USA job was cleared against what otherwise would soley be spent on shipping in and out to Reindeerland :)


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#8 Will Montgomery

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Posted 10 February 2017 - 10:00 AM

Bernie will get it working. It's still worth it to send if off to Sweden at some point for an overhaul. Bjorn lives for those cameras.


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#9 John R Woods

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Posted 10 February 2017 - 10:35 AM

Yep, the camera is on its way now.  It scheduled to be here Tuesday.


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#10 Andries Molenaar

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Posted 13 February 2017 - 11:56 AM

Yep, the camera is on its way now.  It scheduled to be here Tuesday.

On its way back from Bernie I suppose.

Just use it for while and see how things work out. It would ridiculous to send it for two maintenance jobs and not use it in between.


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#11 John R Woods

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Posted 13 February 2017 - 03:53 PM

Yeah, I'll use it for a while.  One thing I was told was that the light sensor is weak, and it's just one of those things that happen.  (The needle moved, but I haven't tested it with film.)  I think Wittner has replacements, but I have my Minolta IV-F.  The other 4008 seems to be working, though the 'grip safety' (the switch on the back of the grip) is a bit sticky.  I think I'll send that one to Björn eventually -- though I'd like to get the 5008 to him first.


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#12 John R Woods

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Posted 16 February 2017 - 12:05 PM

The camera was waiting for me when I got home Tuesday.  I may have misheard that the light meter is weak, as it registers the same on this camera as the one on the other camera does.

 

I can't wait to shoot some test footage.  I'll probably get Pro 8mm's ASA50 Daylight stock.  They offer SD, HD, 2K, and 4K transfers.


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#13 Ruben Arce

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 03:51 PM

I'd like to hear about the results. I have the opportunity to buy one of these cameras in great condition at a great price, but the owner says it doesn't run, I can assume is the battery, but if I buy the camera I have to be ready to probably do more that re-celling the battery. Can I ask how much did the service cost? And if possible, I'd love to see the footage.


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#14 John R Woods

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 04:19 PM

I haven't had the chance to shoot test footage yet.  Bloody Pacific Northwest weather!

 

The repair and service was $350.  I have two Beaulieu 4008 ZM IIs.  I'm going to sell the one that didn't go in for repair.  Since it IS running, and since it has a new lithium ion battery and charger (and cover -- BTW, the new battery will cost about $100 on eBay), I'll have to ask $500.  The only thing 'wrong' with it is that the button on the back of the grip is a little sticky.


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#15 Will Montgomery

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Posted 10 March 2017 - 11:47 AM

How was shipping to Sweden? I remember that being complicated with custom forms and more expensive than I expected.


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#16 John R Woods

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Posted 10 March 2017 - 12:18 PM

I shipped it to Bernie at Super 16 Inc in New York.

 

BTW: I like your Scoopic.  In addition to the 4008 that did not need repair, I'm planning to sell my Ultra 16 Scoopic (as most of my other cameras).  I'll have an XTR Prod yet!   :D

 


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#17 Ruben Arce

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Posted 10 March 2017 - 04:34 PM

Thanks John, well $350 for servicing the camera is not that bad. The one that I'm looking to buy is said to be like new, the owner says I ran 3 cartridges on it, and that's all, but for sure it will need at least the battery.

 

XTR Prods are sweet, I would like to buy one too, I had to decide a few days ago between buying a XTR or an Ursa Mini 4.6 and well knowing that I would have to spend a lot of money in film, processing and scanning I got the Ursa, but I like having a film camera around.


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#18 John R Woods

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Posted 10 March 2017 - 05:31 PM



Thanks John, well $350 for servicing the camera is not that bad. The one that I'm looking to buy is said to be like new, the owner says I ran 3 cartridges on it, and that's all, but for sure it will need at least the battery.

 

 

Yeah, that's the thing.  Your seller says it's been tested, but most of the super-8 cameras I see for sale say that they have not been tested.  And it's especially difficult to do with the Beaulieus, because you can't just put in new AA cells.  Fortunately for me, the one I'm selling works -- with the new $100 battery.  The one I just had repaired...  It looked like new.  But after getting the new battery, it didn't work.  So $300+ for the camera, $100 for the battery, $350 for repair, and $50 for shipping.  It's easy to get $800 or more into these things.


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