Jump to content


Photo

Help! Advice needed with Arriflex 2C 16V battery


  • Please log in to reply
25 replies to this topic

#1 Samuel Berger

Samuel Berger
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 479 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • Seattle

Posted 28 October 2017 - 08:23 PM

Hi all, our Arri IIC camera has arrived and it turns out to need a 16V battery rather than 12V. I'm not sure where to look for a 16V. Bescor doesn't make them. I know of places that will build any battery but they won't attach them to a 4 pin XLR. 

 

Would like to see an out-of-the-box solution like the Bescor stuff. Thanks!


  • 0

#2 aapo lettinen

aapo lettinen
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1003 posts
  • Other
  • Finland

Posted 29 October 2017 - 05:08 AM

if you need 16v and have a spare 4-pin power cable (you can have one made too) you could use two 8.4v nimh airsoft batteries in series so would have 16.8v output. you would need some tamiya connectors for it and small amount of wire for the connections.


  • 0

#3 aapo lettinen

aapo lettinen
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1003 posts
  • Other
  • Finland

Posted 29 October 2017 - 05:11 AM

or could use a power tool battery if you can find one with the right voltage. I personally use the airsoft batteries because they are flat and long so they are easy to stack and attach to the camera with velcro


  • 0

#4 Jean-Louis Seguin

Jean-Louis Seguin
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 713 posts
  • Other
  • Montreal, Canada

Posted 29 October 2017 - 09:34 AM

Arri 2C motors drain a lot of power.
Battery capacity should be a minimum of 4Ah or 4000mAh. 5Ah to 10Ah is even better.
  • 0

#5 Samuel Berger

Samuel Berger
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 479 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • Seattle

Posted 29 October 2017 - 10:48 AM

There's a guy on eBay right now who apparently adapted Dewalt power tool batteries for his Arri SR2

https://www.ebay.com...GE/253225050059

 

Jean Louis, I thought of getting something like this: http://www.batterysp...obote-bike.aspx

And comibining it with this: http://www.batterysp...ckel-4-pin.aspx

 

I wonder if it can be done as a DIY


  • 0

#6 Jean-Louis Seguin

Jean-Louis Seguin
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 713 posts
  • Other
  • Montreal, Canada

Posted 29 October 2017 - 11:32 AM

The 10Ah battery pack would be an excellent choice if you can handle the weight stated at 5.3 lbs.
  • 0

#7 Samuel Berger

Samuel Berger
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 479 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • Seattle

Posted 29 October 2017 - 02:26 PM

Thank you, Jean-Louis. I don't imagine this weight will be an issue for this application.


  • 0

#8 Jon O'Brien

Jon O'Brien
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 294 posts
  • Other
  • Brisbane

Posted 29 October 2017 - 04:57 PM

I have an Arri 2C on flat base. The motor is the usual pistol grip Arri 2C one, mounted upside down on the base. It has a fairly ancient and tarnished looking PV electrical connection at the base of the motor. The leads are ancient and not in the best of shape. When I get the lens mount changed to PL I'm thinking of also getting the electrical connections changed to some other more convenient system, maybe XLR - whatever's best. Can anyone advise what it typically might cost to get the motor battery plug/connection modified? Also, typically, now much does a camera that probably hasn't been used for three decades usually need spent on it in terms of greasing and maintenance to bring it up to ready-to-film level, assuming all parts are fine and working? The camera seems in good condition. It has all the bits necessary and just needs lenses (to be hired), film mags and battery connection. I'm not very mechanically minded myself and would prefer an expert to work on it.


Edited by Jon O'Brien, 29 October 2017 - 04:58 PM.

  • 0

#9 Samuel Berger

Samuel Berger
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 479 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • Seattle

Posted 30 October 2017 - 01:10 AM

Can anyone advise what it typically might cost to get the motor battery plug/connection modified? Also, typically, now much does a camera that probably hasn't been used for three decades usually need spent on it in terms of greasing and maintenance to bring it up to ready-to-film level, assuming all parts are fine and working? The camera seems in good condition. It has all the bits necessary and just needs lenses (to be hired), film mags and battery connection. I'm not very mechanically minded myself and would prefer an expert to work on it.

 

You're in Australia. Go here and call the number on the page. http://www.arandafilm.com.au/


  • 0

#10 Richard Perrine

Richard Perrine
  • Basic Members
  • PipPip
  • 19 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • Akron ohio

Posted 04 November 2017 - 04:55 PM

Hi Sam.....I've also got an Arri 2c.....years ago I bought a CP xtal replacement motor for that draws only about 2 amps at 16 vdc.

in the past I've found some gell cells....normally used in emergency lighting battery packs.

Gell cells have no memory.

they come in 6 volt blocks....3 of them for 18 vdc....years ago they were about $20.00 each.

Building a box to carry them in was a make shift thing..

I used anywhere from 5 to 8 amp hour blocks...wired them together....and also made my own chargers for them.

 

I actually did 2   12vdc packs for my Arri 16BL.....and sent them out on a shoot.

They ran 16,000 ft of film...when I asked them how the batteries worked out....they told me that 

they didn't change to the second battery or charge the first one that they were using.


  • 0

#11 Samuel Berger

Samuel Berger
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 479 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • Seattle

Posted 04 November 2017 - 05:01 PM

Hi, there! Interesting that this post got revived today as I've just received my new 16V battery in the post two hours ago. The governor motor runs at exactly 24 fps with it. It's not crystal but it will do. Unfortunately I don't have the necessary gears to replace the motor with a crystal unit.


  • 0

#12 Jean-Louis Seguin

Jean-Louis Seguin
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 713 posts
  • Other
  • Montreal, Canada

Posted 04 November 2017 - 06:31 PM

What gear do you need exactly?
I might have some.
  • 0

#13 Samuel Berger

Samuel Berger
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 479 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • Seattle

Posted 04 November 2017 - 06:38 PM

Thanks Jean-Louis, but we've just checked and nothing can be done about it, the whole body is very heavily modified. My friend tells me the technician told him "the motor/motor base/inching system/viewfinder/lens mount are all different from the Arri configuration.  Nothing to do with gears, everything to do with body shape/placement of parts."


  • 0

#14 Richard Perrine

Richard Perrine
  • Basic Members
  • PipPip
  • 19 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • Akron ohio

Posted 04 November 2017 - 06:59 PM

Got some pictures of the camera?

The Arri techniscope did have a different movement installed in the body.

On my 4 perf camera....i would unscrew the motor from the bottom and remove the adapter gear.....attach a Cine 60 base (without the adaptor gear 

and flip the motor upside down and screw it into the Cine 60 flat base....It a one to one drive so nothing different there.

the techniscope camera usually had a buckle trip switch (for loss of loop shut off) and also could be ordered with a pilot tone generator for feeding

camera sync pulse to the Nagra.

 

Mine also has a hard front one it  (only mounts one lens) rather than the 3 lens turret....with an arri standard mount.....

the later camera could have a Arri B mount for the lens.

 

also I never had to replace the adaptor gear when I switched to the CP Xtal motor.


  • 0

#15 Samuel Berger

Samuel Berger
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 479 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • Seattle

Posted 04 November 2017 - 07:21 PM

Nothing really standard about this one.

 

Arri2CBox.jpg


  • 0

#16 Dom Jaeger

Dom Jaeger
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1578 posts
  • Other
  • Melbourne, Australia

Posted 04 November 2017 - 08:15 PM

I have an Arri 2C on flat base.. When I get the lens mount changed to PL I'm thinking of also getting the electrical connections changed to some other more convenient system, maybe XLR - whatever's best. Can anyone advise what it typically might cost to get the motor battery plug/connection modified? Also, typically, now much does a camera that probably hasn't been used for three decades usually need spent on it in terms of greasing and maintenance to bring it up to ready-to-film level, assuming all parts are fine and working?


Sorry Jon, I missed this question before.

If you have the original motor cable, it might be best to just replace the battery end plug, rather than the motor socket, but that could be modified also. The cost is no doubt variable and negotiable, depending on how much work is required.

I've serviced a few 2Cs over the years, they are pretty simple mechanically and don't usually require too much work to relubricate. It's always worth checking the flange depth and ground glass focus before embarking on a project. You can check out the insides of one on my cinetinker entry on the 2C:
http://cinetinker.bl...com.au/2014/04/

Send me a PM if you want to discuss it further.
  • 0

#17 Dom Jaeger

Dom Jaeger
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1578 posts
  • Other
  • Melbourne, Australia

Posted 04 November 2017 - 08:37 PM

Nothing really standard about this one. 


Yeah looks like you got something of a Frankencam.. Do you know who did the modification?
  • 0

#18 Samuel Berger

Samuel Berger
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 479 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • Seattle

Posted 04 November 2017 - 08:38 PM

Yeah looks like you got something of a Frankencam.. Do you know who did the modification?

 

Your countryman, Mr. Bruce McNaughton. :-)


  • 0

#19 Dom Jaeger

Dom Jaeger
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1578 posts
  • Other
  • Melbourne, Australia

Posted 04 November 2017 - 08:59 PM

Did he do the hardfront, door finder and base as well as the 2 perf conversion?
  • 0

#20 Samuel Berger

Samuel Berger
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 479 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • Seattle

Posted 04 November 2017 - 09:24 PM

Did he do the hardfront, door finder and base as well as the 2 perf conversion?

 

Yep, all his work. Now I have no idea where that finder came from or if I'll ever be able to add a videotap since the finder hole is non-standard. It's about a 43 or 44mm thread.

What worries me is the viewfinder's diopter, I'm not sure I'm setting it right. I guess a test roll of film will answer that. Also I wish the finder had a zoom function but looks like it doesn't.

 

We should have chosen his other one. It was just a regular 2C in 2-perf. But my friend kept saying we'd get sharper glass in PL. Now we have an un-blimpable camera with matte box rods on the SIDE rather than under.


  • 0


Media Blackout - Custom Cables and AKS

Rig Wheels Passport

Opal

Metropolis Post

Paralinx LLC

CineTape

The Slider

Willys Widgets

FJS International, LLC

Abel Cine

Aerial Filmworks

Wooden Camera

Tai Audio

Ritter Battery

Technodolly

rebotnix Technologies

CineLab

Broadcast Solutions Inc

Visual Products

Glidecam

Gamma Ray Digital Inc

Abel Cine

Opal

Ritter Battery

Paralinx LLC

Rig Wheels Passport

Glidecam

Aerial Filmworks

Gamma Ray Digital Inc

Tai Audio

The Slider

CineLab

rebotnix Technologies

Visual Products

Willys Widgets

Technodolly

FJS International, LLC

Wooden Camera

Broadcast Solutions Inc

Media Blackout - Custom Cables and AKS

Metropolis Post

CineTape