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DOLLIE FOCUS


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#1 jijhh

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Posted 09 July 2005 - 01:44 PM

I was just looking for some insight on this situation. I have numerous shots that dolly between 10 and 20 feet straight at or away from a still object. All of these shots are being filmed at F.22, so I'm working with a large depth of field. How important is it that I rack the focus exactly? Also, does anyone know of a budget way to make a focus pulling device?

Andrew
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#2 Stephen Williams

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Posted 09 July 2005 - 01:49 PM

I was just looking for some insight on this situation.  I have numerous shots that dolly between 10 and 20 feet straight at or away from a still object.  All of these shots are being filmed at F.22, so I'm working with a large depth of field.  How important is it that I rack the focus exactly? Also, does anyone know of a budget way to make a focus pulling device?

Andrew

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Hi

At f 22 you dont have to be that accurate with focus pulling. As for a cheap device how about fingers touching the focus ring?

Stephen Williams DP

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#3 Laurent Andrieux

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Posted 09 July 2005 - 06:49 PM

Also, what is your camera ? Don't you have somebody with you who could do the job...? I mean, he could assist you...

DOF depends a lot on aperture but also on the focal length. If it's a close shot, you may have problems ven at f 22...

Edited by laurent.a, 09 July 2005 - 06:50 PM.

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#4 Allen Achterberg

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Posted 10 July 2005 - 12:37 AM

What format you shooting on? What lens length? thos are important in determining whether you needc to pull focus, if it turns out you do need to pull, Pulling from the Barrel is your only option if you dont have a follow focus unit...

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#5 drew_town

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Posted 10 July 2005 - 10:03 AM

Pulling from the Barrel is your only option if you dont have a follow focus unit...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

It's not the only option. You can get a studio focus system where you can control manual focus on a tripod handle, which can be a good bit smoother and a little more practical is certain situations than using the barrel. Or a LANC based system for DV cameras, which would be the cheapest but most mechanical-looking solution. Granted a follow focus would be the best solution.
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#6 jijhh

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Posted 10 July 2005 - 12:31 PM

I'm shooting on 16mm with a Canon Scoopic MS, most likely at either 25 or 35mm. I have a DP who will be working the camera, but I just wanted to know if there was a more accurate and smooth way than using your hands on the barrel.

Andrew
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#7 Laurent Andrieux

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Posted 10 July 2005 - 05:50 PM

So I guess you have a zoom lens with it or do you use 25 and 35 primes on it ?.

If a zoom, problem is are you sure it's properly set ie do you keep focus when you zoom out ?

If the ring is big enough you may have a screw hole on it where you can rig a stick that helps at first...

Edited by laurent.a, 10 July 2005 - 05:51 PM.

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#8 jijhh

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Posted 11 July 2005 - 12:31 AM

its a zoom lens. if it isn't set will that affect dolly focus if i don't plan on zooming at all?
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#9 Chris Keth

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Posted 11 July 2005 - 11:15 PM

its a zoom lens.  if it isn't set will that affect dolly focus if  i don't plan on zooming at all?

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It should work alright with a zoom just as with a prime.
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#10 Stephen Williams

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Posted 12 July 2005 - 09:23 AM

I'm shooting on 16mm with a Canon Scoopic MS, most likely at either 25 or 35mm.  I have a DP who will be working the camera, but I just wanted to know if there was a more accurate and smooth way than using your hands on the barrel.

Andrew

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Hi,

I have just looked at my Samcine disc.

Any Lens Upto about 70mm focused at 13 feet @ T22 will be in focus from 10 to 20 feet so a split would work fine with a 25 or 35mm lens

Cheers

Stephen Williams DP

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#11 Laurent Andrieux

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Posted 20 July 2005 - 08:37 PM

It should work alright with a zoom just as with a prime.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>


Look, if it's not set properly, that will mean 3 things :

1) You cannot trust the focus ring

2) you cannot pull focus at the telephoto for then enlarging to the focal length you need, because it won't track the focus

3) you can try focusing at the focal length you want to use but... if the ground glass is not properly set either, you may be out of focus, even though it looks sharp in the viewfinder...
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