Jump to content


Photo

Converting my Bolex to one perf


  • Please log in to reply
11 replies to this topic

#1 John Atala

John Atala
  • Basic Members
  • PipPip
  • 85 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • L.A. & Rio de Janeiro

Posted 29 July 2005 - 06:26 PM

Ok, i have this Bolex H-16, and it works great, also the lens are quite good.

The only prblem is that the camera was made to use a two perf negative, and kodak brazil (thanks kodak) nor fuji, sells two perf 16mm negs. Here's the deal, can i make this operation myself, or do i have to pay some guy? On the Bolex site, they say that this procedure is rather easy and simple to be performed, are they saying this to a user or to a technitian??

Is there's any literature on the subject that you people know of, please help me on this one.

thanks for your time,

Jon
  • 0

#2 Mike Lary

Mike Lary
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 472 posts
  • Other

Posted 29 July 2005 - 07:48 PM

You can grind the teeth down with a Dremel tool. A buddy of mine did this with his Bolex and it works beautifully.

Beware of fine metal dust, though - you wouldn't want it to land in the gate or in your eyes. :blink:
  • 0

#3 David Mullen ASC

David Mullen ASC
  • Sustaining Members
  • 19769 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • Los Angeles

Posted 29 July 2005 - 07:51 PM

Double-perf 16mm can be bought special-order.
  • 0

#4 Michael Carter

Michael Carter
  • Guests

Posted 29 July 2005 - 09:21 PM

Double-perf 16mm can be bought special-order.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

$75 for two single perf wheels and two screws; I asked the Swiss about that very thing. All you need is a screw driver. Take the wheels out if you are going to grind the teeth off. You may need a wheel puller, too. But for that price you could buy another Bolex with single perf!
  • 0

#5 Mike Lary

Mike Lary
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 472 posts
  • Other

Posted 29 July 2005 - 10:01 PM

Take the wheels out if you are going to grind the teeth off.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

If you take the wheels off, make sure to mark their exact position so you can reposition them correctly. If the wheels are off even by a hair, tension between the wheels will jerk the film down against the pressure plate, causing jump frames - and probably cause jams, too.

$75 for a kit does sound a bit pricey, considering what double perf Bolex bodies sell for.

Edited by MikeL, 29 July 2005 - 10:03 PM.

  • 0

#6 John Atala

John Atala
  • Basic Members
  • PipPip
  • 85 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • L.A. &amp; Rio de Janeiro

Posted 29 July 2005 - 11:30 PM

yeah, keeping in mind that i got the camera for under 100 bucks, i guess that i´m gonna risk grinding the two wheels and see what happens.

I particularly enjoy the bolex and would love to have a camera that would run one perf films, i´m up for it.

thanks for your help guys. I´ll try posting here the results.

Jon
  • 0

#7 peter bartle

peter bartle
  • Basic Members
  • PipPip
  • 29 posts
  • 1st Assistant Camera

Posted 30 July 2005 - 03:08 AM

i've done this conversion at work many times.... I remove the sprockets then get out machinist to remove the teeth & lip on our lathe...

if you want to do it on the cheap, the best way i'd recommend to do it is remove the sprockets from the camera yourself & take them to a semi-retired machinist who'll do the machining quite cheap (average rate here in Australia is AU$45)

I would not recommend the Dremel option as it's not really suitable for this type of job, although the Dremel is a great tool for a camera tech, I use one at work quite often.

just make sure you explain to the machinist what you want done exactly... remember they're machinist's, not camera tech's...

or as David said, use double perf film....
  • 0

#8 Michael Carter

Michael Carter
  • Guests

Posted 30 July 2005 - 01:17 PM

I just bought a H16M for the Switar lens. The camera has single perf. You can buy the camera for $50 plus shipping and use it or take the wheels off. Let me know. michaelatstudiocarterdotcom
  • 0

#9 John Atala

John Atala
  • Basic Members
  • PipPip
  • 85 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • L.A. &amp; Rio de Janeiro

Posted 05 August 2005 - 03:12 PM

it looks like a good deal, but i'll first attempt to operate my camera and try to make it one perf myself

Guys, two more things...

1. I can't seem to take the wheels out, any of you people know how to do it. I wasted a couple of hours removing the two screws from each wheel, but it diddn't remove them, it just kinda loosen them up. HOW DO I REMOVE THE 2 WHEELS ????? ;)

2. Once I remove the wheels, should i grind only the teeth out or the higher sections in which the teeth are on as well?

I'm afraid i'm not being clear on the second topic. The wheel is made up of a central area which covers about 90% of it, the other 10% is divided in two (top and bottom), and this section is about 0,3 inches higher than the larger area. the teeth come out from these areas. now, what has to come out, just the teeth or the largaer areas on the ends as well?


thanks guys!
jon
  • 0

#10 Mike Lary

Mike Lary
  • Basic Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 472 posts
  • Other

Posted 06 August 2005 - 02:24 PM

2. Once I remove the wheels, should i grind only the teeth out or the higher sections in which the teeth are on as well?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Just the teeth.
  • 0

#11 John Atala

John Atala
  • Basic Members
  • PipPip
  • 85 posts
  • Cinematographer
  • L.A. &amp; Rio de Janeiro

Posted 06 August 2005 - 03:15 PM

Thanks guys!
  • 0

#12 Michael Carter

Michael Carter
  • Guests

Posted 06 August 2005 - 06:30 PM

If you need a wheel puller to get the wheels off ... how will you get the wheels back ON?
That happened to me when I swapped wheels on two Keystone A-9 cameras. I had to file a little here and push HARD to get them back on. The shaft must be at the correct height, the wheel must be away from the body just right. On one camea the shutter rubbed when it was not correclty set - the wheel and axel to the camera body relationship. Look at where the shaft is in relation to the top of the wheel. The H16 has the shaft a little below the top. The A9 was flush. I did not like to push the wheels on that hard. Perhaps you 'could' grind them while on?

Michael Carter
  • 0


The Slider

Willys Widgets

Abel Cine

Broadcast Solutions Inc

CineTape

rebotnix Technologies

FJS International, LLC

Paralinx LLC

Ritter Battery

Opal

Glidecam

CineLab

Media Blackout - Custom Cables and AKS

Tai Audio

Aerial Filmworks

Technodolly

Wooden Camera

Gamma Ray Digital Inc

Rig Wheels Passport

Metropolis Post

Visual Products

FJS International, LLC

Rig Wheels Passport

CineTape

Technodolly

Tai Audio

Metropolis Post

Visual Products

Gamma Ray Digital Inc

Media Blackout - Custom Cables and AKS

rebotnix Technologies

Glidecam

Aerial Filmworks

Opal

The Slider

Paralinx LLC

Wooden Camera

CineLab

Ritter Battery

Abel Cine

Broadcast Solutions Inc

Willys Widgets