Converting my Bolex to one perf
Posted 29 July 2005 - 06:26 PM
The only prblem is that the camera was made to use a two perf negative, and kodak brazil (thanks kodak) nor fuji, sells two perf 16mm negs. Here's the deal, can i make this operation myself, or do i have to pay some guy? On the Bolex site, they say that this procedure is rather easy and simple to be performed, are they saying this to a user or to a technitian??
Is there's any literature on the subject that you people know of, please help me on this one.
thanks for your time,
Posted 29 July 2005 - 07:48 PM
Beware of fine metal dust, though - you wouldn't want it to land in the gate or in your eyes.
Posted 29 July 2005 - 09:21 PM
$75 for two single perf wheels and two screws; I asked the Swiss about that very thing. All you need is a screw driver. Take the wheels out if you are going to grind the teeth off. You may need a wheel puller, too. But for that price you could buy another Bolex with single perf!
Double-perf 16mm can be bought special-order.
Posted 29 July 2005 - 10:01 PM
If you take the wheels off, make sure to mark their exact position so you can reposition them correctly. If the wheels are off even by a hair, tension between the wheels will jerk the film down against the pressure plate, causing jump frames - and probably cause jams, too.
Take the wheels out if you are going to grind the teeth off.
$75 for a kit does sound a bit pricey, considering what double perf Bolex bodies sell for.
Edited by MikeL, 29 July 2005 - 10:03 PM.
Posted 29 July 2005 - 11:30 PM
I particularly enjoy the bolex and would love to have a camera that would run one perf films, i´m up for it.
thanks for your help guys. I´ll try posting here the results.
Posted 30 July 2005 - 03:08 AM
if you want to do it on the cheap, the best way i'd recommend to do it is remove the sprockets from the camera yourself & take them to a semi-retired machinist who'll do the machining quite cheap (average rate here in Australia is AU$45)
I would not recommend the Dremel option as it's not really suitable for this type of job, although the Dremel is a great tool for a camera tech, I use one at work quite often.
just make sure you explain to the machinist what you want done exactly... remember they're machinist's, not camera tech's...
or as David said, use double perf film....
Posted 30 July 2005 - 01:17 PM
Posted 05 August 2005 - 03:12 PM
Guys, two more things...
1. I can't seem to take the wheels out, any of you people know how to do it. I wasted a couple of hours removing the two screws from each wheel, but it diddn't remove them, it just kinda loosen them up. HOW DO I REMOVE THE 2 WHEELS ?????
2. Once I remove the wheels, should i grind only the teeth out or the higher sections in which the teeth are on as well?
I'm afraid i'm not being clear on the second topic. The wheel is made up of a central area which covers about 90% of it, the other 10% is divided in two (top and bottom), and this section is about 0,3 inches higher than the larger area. the teeth come out from these areas. now, what has to come out, just the teeth or the largaer areas on the ends as well?
Posted 06 August 2005 - 06:30 PM
That happened to me when I swapped wheels on two Keystone A-9 cameras. I had to file a little here and push HARD to get them back on. The shaft must be at the correct height, the wheel must be away from the body just right. On one camea the shutter rubbed when it was not correclty set - the wheel and axel to the camera body relationship. Look at where the shaft is in relation to the top of the wheel. The H16 has the shaft a little below the top. The A9 was flush. I did not like to push the wheels on that hard. Perhaps you 'could' grind them while on?