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keeping it even in the real outdoors


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#1 laurababybird

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Posted 29 August 2005 - 11:29 PM

I will be shooting a daytime backyard scene on DV. Problem is the weather here is extremely changeable. :unsure: Sometimes its peaky and overcast and within minutes blue skies with direct sunshine...Any suggestions about how I can maintain lighting continuity?
Thanks for your time everyone.
Laura
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#2 Tim J Durham

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Posted 29 August 2005 - 11:44 PM

I will be shooting a daytime backyard scene on DV.  Problem is the weather here is extremely changeable.  :unsure:  Sometimes its peaky and overcast and within minutes blue skies with direct sunshine...Any suggestions about how I can maintain lighting continuity?
Thanks for your time everyone.
Laura

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Make sure you shoot the clouds moving across the sky as they cross infront of the sun. Then you have a cutaway which (subconsciously) explains the problem to the viewer. Either that or wait for a full-sun or overcast day.
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#3 laurababybird

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Posted 30 August 2005 - 01:00 AM

Thanks tim. I like your logic.
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#4 Chris Cooke

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Posted 30 August 2005 - 01:07 AM

Depends on your budget and situation. You could fly in a big butterfly over the set and have a 12K HMI going through it. Or, forget the HMI and just use the sun through a butterfly. Also, Tim makes a good point about shooting the clouds going in front of the sun for motivation. If done at the right time this can be used for dramatic emphasis. Big bounce boards are great for outdoors. You can shape the light in almost any way. If you backlight your subject with the sun, minor changes in continuity are less noticable than frontal lighting.
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#5 Lars.Erik

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Posted 30 August 2005 - 03:09 AM

Bounce cards are good, but won't do nothing but steal your time if it's overcast.

You could use HMI as stated. Personally I never do outdoor scenes without HMI when shooting digital. Specially DV. These cams just aren't very nice in bright contrast. Some contrast yes, but filming outdoor with the sun pounding against you, you should try and get a HMI.

The problem is that with a 12kw, you'll probably need some extra power. Generator. So if you are on a low budget this could be difficult. You could hire a couple of 2,5kw, and use them for the CU's. Can't be too far away though. Not like the 12kw. This will cost about the same as for just the 12kw. This is the place you will probably have the greatest problems anyway. One thing which you have to remember, is to keep the same f-stop on cutting CU's.

The idea about the skies are good, but you might have a problem with cutting to just the skies. Might seem a bit odd. If you in some other way could show the changing skies, a wide angle shot with a window in the background which is reflecting the changing skies etc.

Butterfly is a good idea. You should get one of these.

But the one thing which is important, is that you should try and shoot the scene chronologically.

For the wide angles, and I love to do this myself, I use mini magic arms. These I put close to the lens, all the way in to the glass, a couple of them. Attach them to the rods. When the arms are that close to the lens, they just look like shadow areas in the frame. Just gives the frame a better dynamic I think.

Edited by Lars.Erik, 30 August 2005 - 03:12 AM.

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