Standard 16 on super 16 camera
Posted 28 September 2005 - 10:08 AM
I am operating the camera for a project where the finished film will be on standard 16mm for projection.
However the camera I have acess to is a Aaton LTR set up for super 16. How can I tell where the edge of the frame will be? There are no markings in the viewfinder. Do I have to have it adjusted? Also do I have to adjust the position of the lens and if so is this a difficult thing to do? Of course the productgion has very little money.
I have shot very little before on anything other than a bolex or a bell and howell, So I'm sorry if this is a dumb question.
Posted 28 September 2005 - 11:46 AM
The poor man's method, jsut to give you an idea what you're framing for might go as follows:
Make a framing chart with a rectangle with 1.33:1 proportions. Put your camera on a tripod and tape the chart to the wall, level with the optical axis of the camera. Frame up the rectangle so that it's top and bottom lines match those of the 1.66:1 (Super 16 gate) top and bottom lines. match the chart's frame-left line with the gate's frame-left line and that's where regular 16mm ought to be. The area frame-right, outsde of your framing chart is the super 16mm annex. It is enough to give you a rough idea of what you're framing for if you can't get the ground glass taped. If you have a video tap, even better. You can tape off the monitor.
The mount and viewfinder will not be recentered though. You'll always be framing for screen left in the viewfinder and your zooms will track improperly (as in drift to one side as you zoom) as the optical center and zoom axis of the lens are not recentered for the old format. But... it works well enough for some people... give it a try and see if it bugs you.
Posted 28 September 2005 - 11:48 AM
Posted 29 September 2005 - 10:27 AM
The poor man's method sounds like the one for me. You're sure it's the left side of the frame I want and the right that'll be outside the 1.33 frame? There are no zooms planned so that's not a problem. You're suggestion made me think I could put some kind of matte on for framing the shot and then remove it for actual shooting. Thanks again,