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how do I compensate?


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#1 Carl Weston

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Posted 28 September 2005 - 01:35 PM

I have a camera that read 4 ASA speeds T ASA 40 ,160 ? D ASA 25,100
1 questions.
I want to shoot TriX D 200 ASA how do I compensate?..
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#2 John Pytlak RIP

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Posted 28 September 2005 - 01:43 PM

I have a camera that read 4 ASA speeds T ASA 40 ,160 ? D ASA 25,100
1 questions.
I want to shoot TriX  D 200 ASA how do I compensate?..

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>


Expose it as EI-160 Tungsten:

http://www.kodak.com...&lc=en#exposure
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#3 Matt Sandstrom

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Posted 28 September 2005 - 02:18 PM

you probably have to cut your own filter notch for that though (easy). most cameras won't let you set them to tungsten if you pop in a daylight cart. or if you have an exposure compensation dial you can set it to underexpose a stop.

/matt
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#4 Carl Weston

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Posted 28 September 2005 - 03:33 PM

you probably have to cut your own filter notch for that though (easy). most cameras won't let you set them to tungsten if you pop in a daylight cart. or if you have an exposure compensation dial you can set it to underexpose a stop.

/matt

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>


ok .. thanks
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#5 Anthony Schilling

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Posted 30 September 2005 - 12:26 PM

Correct me if i'm wrong, but the camera should read it as 160ASA without filter, overexposing it by 1/3rd stop. at least this is how it has seemd to work in all cameras.
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#6 Dimitrios Koukas

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Posted 01 October 2005 - 05:15 AM

I have a camera that read 4 ASA speeds T ASA 40 ,160 ? D ASA 25,100
1 questions.
I want to shoot TriX D 200 ASA how do I compensate?..


Just set it to 160ASA, as mr,Pytlak said.
Actually the results will be better than if you expose for 200ASA.
Dimitrios Koukas
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#7 Matt Sandstrom

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Posted 03 October 2005 - 07:52 AM

Correct me if i'm wrong, but the camera should read it as 160ASA without filter, overexposing it by 1/3rd stop.

i don't know how the tri-x carts are notched but the notch for 160t actually means 100d if there's no filter notch. that's what the spec says and that's how for example canon cameras do it, but i hear some manufacturers handle it differently.

Just set it to 160ASA

that would be the simple solution of course, but he's using a camera that sets the asa automatically.

/matt
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#8 santo

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Posted 03 October 2005 - 04:55 PM

that would be the simple solution of course, but he's using a camera that sets the asa automatically.

/matt


Yes, if it sets automatically to 160 asa, do as John suggests. I have tested the Nizo 3056 and my example didn't work the same as a Canon. In a Canon, the cart notched to 160 but with the filter notch not removed, registers as 100. In the Nizo I tested, a cart with or without the filter notch that was cut to 160 remained at 160 unless the filter in the camera was engaged and then it fell to 100.

I gave up on the cart reading super 8 system a long time ago as it's a nightmare for any serious work, Carl, and I think you'd do well to do the same. Anybody would. Constantly second guessing everything -- it's ridiculous! Now I shoot everything on a Leicina Special and just turn the ASA knob to whatever film stock I'm shooting if I choose to use the pretty accurate internal light meter.

If you're going to keep on using the Nizo instead of your professional design Beaulieus I read on here you now have, it would be a good idea to figure out the difference in exposure with a decent external meter. The beam splitting prism in the Nizo cuts out maybe 20 to 30% of the light, and the zoom lens cuts out a little bit, too. So if you can figure out some sort of standard percentage difference between a decent external meter reading and your Nizo's TTL meter with a known film cart that it absolutely can read correctly without question, from then on you can use the external meter and its calculations and be correct and not have to worry anymore. If it's 20% off from your external meter reading, then just factor that in to your shots from now on and set your F-stop with the external meter, dialing in the correct film speed and filter compensation, of course.

Edited by santo, 03 October 2005 - 05:01 PM.

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#9 Dimitrios Koukas

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Posted 03 October 2005 - 06:31 PM

i don't know how the tri-x carts are notched but the notch for 160t actually means 100d if there's no filter notch. that's what the spec says and that's how for example canon cameras do it, but i hear some manufacturers handle it differently.
that would be the simple solution of course, but he's using a camera that sets the asa automatically.

/matt


Ok he can use a photometer then.
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#10 Carl Weston

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Posted 03 October 2005 - 07:52 PM

Ok he can use a photometer then.
Dimitrios Koukas


The problem is not with my Nizo S80..it reads the cart fine...it my Eumig 65XLS...it only reads ASA 40 ,160 ? D ASA 25,100..
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#11 Dimitrios Koukas

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Posted 03 October 2005 - 11:57 PM

The problem is not with my Nizo S80..it reads the cart fine...it my Eumig 65XLS...it only reads ASA 40 ,160 ? D ASA 25,100..

I don't know the camera,
Does it have an always auto f/stop on (wich I don't think so) in relation to the camera's photometer?
If not, just use a photometer and rate your stock at 160ASA, a little overexposure never hurt anyone.
So put the 200 ASA in and use the photometer readings to adjust your f/stop manualy I guess?
Dimitrios Koukas
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#12 Anthony Schilling

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Posted 04 October 2005 - 12:11 AM

If your reading 160ASA, go -1/3rd and it looks perfect.
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#13 Matt Sandstrom

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Posted 04 October 2005 - 07:26 PM

Ok he can use a photometer then.

yeah, that's what i always do when i shoot anything other than k40 which i know my camera auto exposes correctly (and even then sometimes of course, for more creative control). like santo i gave up on figuring out the notching system a long time ago. every interpretation of the spec seems reasonable but everyone seems to be using their own so nothing is ever compatible. now, the question is just whether this camera has manual exposure. many don't.

/matt
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